The 10 Most Significant Blacks in U.S. Fashion

Date: Tuesday, September 01, 2009, 5:04 am
By: Tonya Pendleton, BlackAmericaWeb.com


“Project Runway” Season Five fan favorite Korto Momolu may not have won the big prize, but the designer definitely has a bright future in front of her. Her vibrant designs have already gotten her a wave of positive press and celebrity endorsements, and this weekend, she’s producing the fashion show at the "Tom Joyner Family Reunion" in Orlando, Florida.

But as a black designer, Momolu -- like her Seasons One and Three counterparts, Kara Saun and Mychael Knight -- is still a rarity in fashion. In fact, despite the exposure they’ve gained from “Project Runway,” blacks in fashion remain largely on the sidelines in an industry that is still segregated. But due to pioneering individuals who have managed to break through, openings have been created for Momolu, Saun, Knight and others who want to pursue their dreams in fashion.

Here we celebrate 10 of fashion’s most unsung, yet significant, black icons.


DONYALE LUNA

Black models were unheard of in fashion until the heyday of Detroit native Donyale Luna, born Peggy Anne Freeman. She is credited as the first black supermodel, appearing on the cover of British Vogue in 1966. An illustration of Luna was the cover of Harper’s Bazaar in 1965. The slim, 5’10 model appeared in several Andy Warhol films and in films by Fellini and Otto Preminger. She was the lead of the film “Salome,” released in 1972, and modeled for some of the top designers in the '60’s. Sadly, Luna spent much of her short life denying her African-American heritage and died of a drug overdose in Rome at age 34. Her daughter, Dream Cazzaniga is an artist living in Italy. 

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ANDRE LEON TALLEY

He may be best known to young people as the man who put Oscar winner Jennifer Hudson in that “Star Trek” shrug on Oscar Night, but he’s also the preeminent African-American fashion authority. As the editor-at-large at American Vogue, Talley, 59, has had a literal and figurative front-row seat to fashion for almost three decades. Born in North Carolina, Talley worked his way up through the fashion world, eventually coming to the attention of former Vogue editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland, who became his mentor. An early and vocal supporter of President Barack Obama, Talley introduced Michelle Obama to designer Jason Wu, who famously designed The First Lady’s inaugural ball gown.

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WILLI SMITH

The late designer Willi Smith may have been the most successful mainstream black designer ever. In his '80’s heyday, his Williwear line sold over $25 million annually (and if adjusted for today’s dollars, would undoubtedly be much more). The openly gay Smith was born in Philadelphia and earned two scholarships to attend the Parsons School of Design. He won both the prestigious Coty Award for women’s fashion in 1983 and the Cutty Sark Award for men’s fashion as well in 1985. Easy-going, inexpensive sportswear was Smith’s trademark. His casual suit design for groom Edwin Schlossberg at his wedding to Caroline Kennedy made headlines, but he remained as popular as ever among commoners. Smith’s sister, Toukie, was a well-known model in the 80’s. Sadly, Smith died of pneumonia and the parasitic disease shigella in 1989 at age 39. 

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TRACY REESE

Designer Tracy Reese is definitely an anomaly in the fashion industry: A mainstream female black designer who’s managed to maintain her line for over a decade. Not only that, she’s now a board member of the powerful Council For Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), fashion’s governing body, and she has an eponymous New York City clothing store. Reese also designs a home and footwear collection. Not bad for a girl .....



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I was more than disappointed that Korto was robbed of her win on "P.R", but I try to look at it as a "it'll make her stronger!" life lesson. I hope that she gets her own fashion line in stores, I'd definitely, like to buy her styles.
On a different note, I went to school with(at the same time as, didn't know her personally) Donyale Luna and I always felt she had a "dark" aura. She used to walk the halls of school, alone, always dressed in black (as I remember).Denying her race seemed the least of what bothered her. I always wondered, (back then)...why such a beautiful girl, was so sad.


by   
Msbyrdt
September 9, 2009, 10:45 am
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I'm surprise that Koto Momolu's image even appears on a black site. Usually sistahs with her skin tone are discriminated against on black websites. Dark-skinned women are simply made invisible in black magazines and sites. Thanks Black America Web!


by   
Twiipi
September 1, 2009, 12:25 pm
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KORTO!!! I LOVE YOUR DESIGNS!!! I refuse to watch Project Runway because you did not win last season. I was so upset. I almost cried. Keep doing what you're doing!!!!!!


by   
Reno112303
September 1, 2009, 11:22 am
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Designers like "Project Runway" favorite Korto Momolu have bright futures in store. But who are the icons?

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